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In March, we know that spring is just around the corner. But we also know that March storms can produce ice instead of (or in addition to) snow. And that ice can be a dangerous force. The added weight of ice on poles can quickly lead to broken power poles and other pole equipment. Ice can also make falling tree branches 30 times heavier and much more likely to break power lines. For example, on a 300-foot span of 1-inch-thick power lines: 1/2 inch of ice adds 281 pounds of weight 1 inch of ice adds 749 pounds of weight 2 inches of ice adds 2,248 pounds of weight In addition, melting ice can cause power outages. If ice on the bottom (neutral) line melts before the lines above, it can cause the lines to touch, leading to an outage. Other ice facts Damage can begin when ice exceeds 1/4 of an inch 1/2 inch of ice can cause a line to sag up to 12 inches Pressure can also be caused by a broken tree limb Both ice and melting ice can cause power outages Ice can form around power lines in a teardrop shape. This shape acts as a wing, causing the line to gain lift and rise with high winds. The ice can also break off, causing unsafe conditions on the ground. Source: Safeelectricity.org

In February, we published a list of routine home maintenance tasks to perform to keep your systems operating at peak performance. One task we did not include on the list, but promised to revisit, is hot water heater maintenance. Flushing the water heater tank removes mineral sediment that accumulates in the bottom of the tank. If it’s not completed frequently enough, the mineral buildup may cause banging or rumbling noises as water moves through the tank. If you wait too long to flush the tank, the sediment will make it harder to complete the task later. Even worse: Your tank (if it’s a steel tank) may rust out prematurely. If you have a newer water heater model: Some home maintenance lists recommend flushing the tank annually, while others, such as the RHEEM Marathon Use and Care Manual, recommend that a few quarts or liters of water be drained from the bottom of the tank every month to remove mineral deposits. The deposits that settle in the basin (the bottom of the water heater) come from mineral solids that are suspended in water. If you start immediately after installation, you should have no problems with the accumulation of the mineral deposits, and you’ll keep your tank in good condition and working well. If your water heater hasn’t been flushed for years: Some plumbers advise against flushing at all by this point because the flushing action could activate leaks. The theory is this: Tiny fissures in the base of the water heater may have filled with sediment that helps prevent leaks, particularly in a gas water heater as the flame has been baking the steel bottom. Flushing out the sediment could remove some of the protection against leaking (in other words, the sediment that has been preventing holes from forming). If your water heater hasn’t been flushed for years, it would pay to ask one or more plumbers in your area for an opinion on how to proceed. An additional task for steel water heater tanks: Most steel water heater tanks have a thin glass lining to protect the metal from corrosion. Since the lining eventually cracks, tanks have a second line of defense against rust: a long metal “anode rod” that attracts corrosive elements from the water. When the rod becomes so corroded that it can no longer do its job, the tank soon rusts out, leaks and needs to be replaced. However, replacing the water heater anode rod before it fails, about every five years can double the life of the heater. Because the rod can be difficult to break loose and must be installed with liquid Teflon pipe thread sealant (not tape), consider hiring a qualified plumber. Investigate the low maintenance option for your next water heater: Contact your cooperative to learn more about the advantages of the low-maintenance, Marathon electric water heater – the last water heater you’ll ever need to buy! The Marathon features a seamless, blow-molded polybutene inner tank that will not rust or corrode, and the heater’s innovative construction methods deliver a long life, high efficiency and good looks, too! It’s warranted1 not to leak as long as you own your home and does not require an anode rod. If you enroll in our load management program, we offer incentives to make this premium water heater very affordable. A lifetime warranty is provided to original customer in a residential application after online product registration is complete. Registration must be completed within 90 days of installation. For more details: RHEEM Marathon Use and Care Manual Home Tips: How to Flush or Drain a Water Heater (includes illustrations and a video on Maintaining a Water Heater) Family Handyman: Extend the Life of Your Water Heater by Replacing the Anode Rod Contact your electric cooperative for more details on purchasing and installing a RHEEM Marathon water heater.

Most of the time, when we think of the word envelope, we think of the outer covering that our mail comes in. Or, to irritate our kids or coworker, we might push the envelope. However, your home’s envelope consists of its outer walls, windows, doors and other openings. A well-sealed envelope, coupled with the right amount of insulation, can reduce your energy use — and, in turn, your utility bills. According to EnergyStar.gov, a whopping 9 out of 10 homes in the U.S. are under-insulated. Homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs (or an average of 11% on total energy costs) by air sealing their homes and adding insulation in attics, floors, over crawl spaces and basements. To determine if your home’s envelope is in good shape, conduct a home audit to pinpoint the leaks that allow energy to escape your home — air-conditioned air in the summer and heated air in the winter. A qualified energy auditor will include an insulation check as part of a whole-house energy assessment and will identify areas of your home that need air sealing or insulation repairs. As your electric cooperative, we offer members energy audits to assist you in determining where your home may need additional “envelope TLC.” And as a bonus, don’t forget to check our rebate program when you determine what steps you need to take to tighten up your home’s envelope. DIY home energy audit If you prefer to complete your own energy audit rather than calling on a professional, you’ll need to know: The type of insulation in your home. The R-value (rate of thermal resistance) of your insulation. Typically, the higher the R-value, the more effective it is at insulating. Depending on where you live, you do not necessarily need the highest value; it depends on your local climate. The thickness or depth (inches) of the insulation you have. In a newer home, the builder can help identify the type of insulation used and where it is located. In an older home, you will need to perform the inspection yourself. Energy.gov offers detailed advice on where to insulate, insulation in new homes, adding insulation to existing homes, types of insulation and materials, moisture control and air sealing. Find details here. One note: You may read about radiant barriers as a way to save energy. Our experts caution that radiant barriers do not provide any real energy savings in Iowa, as our climate is a “heating dominant” region. Safe Electricity offers a quick overview on how to complete a DIY energy assessment by checking: In the attic A general rule of thumb when inspecting the attic insulation is that if the insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation. If you cannot see any of the floor joists because the insulation is well above them, you probably have enough, and adding more insulation may not be cost-effective. Insulation should be evenly distributed with no low spots; be sure to check throughout the attic to determine if there are any thin spots. Make sure the insulation in your attic has the appropriate R-value for where you live. Check the value printed on your existing insulation. If you cannot find the value, measure the depth of the insulation in inches. Multiply the depth by the following insulation type: 3.2 for fiberglass batting, for the loose fibers category, multiply by 2.5 for loose fiberglass, 2.8 for rock wool and 3.7 for cellulose. Then check EnergyStar.gov’s recommended R-values. If your calculated value is less than the recommended levels for your region, then you should consider adding more insulation to your attic. Behind the walls Turn off the power to the outlet before beginning this check. Then use a voltmeter or voltage tester to confirm that there is no power at the socket before beginning work. Remove the outlet cover and shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box. You should be able to see if there is insulation in the wall and possibly how thick it is. Pull out a small amount of insulation if needed to help determine the type of insulation. Check outlets on all floors, as well as old and new parts of your home. Just because you find insulation in one wall does not mean that it is uniform throughout your home. How to conduct a DIY air leak audit This simplified set of instructions is also from Safe Electricity. Before you repair or install more insulation, you need to identify and repair any potential air leaks in your home’s envelope. Potential problem areas include doors, windows, sill plates (the bottom piece of wall structure where wall studs are attached), top plates (supportive beams in the ceiling), crawl spaces, outdoor faucets, dryer vents, stove vent fans, roof eaves and overhangs, plumbing vent stacks, recessed lighting, attic hatches and air duct registers. One way to have your home checked is by a qualified energy auditor. Or, if you want to address your own home, there are a couple of ways to do this: By yourself Perform a visual inspection on your own in daylight. All potential problem areas should be free from gaps and cracks. While lights are on in the home, also observe from the attic, crawlspace or basement. Anywhere you can see light from the interior of the house shining through gaps and cracks is another air leak location in need of repair. With a partner To conduct a more thorough inspection, work with a partner at night to shine a flashlight over all potential gaps while one of you observes the house from the outside. Anywhere you can see light shine through is an air leak that needs to be sealed properly.

We use our cell phones, tablets and other devices so often that they feel like an extension of our hands. There are a few places where using a device that is plugged into an outlet can be hazardous, however. Do not use a cell phone or other device when it is plugged into an outlet when you: Are in or near a pool or hot tub. Water and electricity are a deadly combination. Electrical current running through water can cause shock or electrocution. Are in the tub or by the sink. Never extend your cell phone or device so that you can reach it while bathing; also, do not plug it in near standing or running water. Are in bed or other soft places. A device can overheat when placed on or under a pillow or soft bedding. Also, charging cubes and cords can malfunction, causing burns, shock or other serious injuries. Hear thunder or lightning. Lightning can cause power surges that are not only harmful to electrical (charging) devices but also to you. Source: Safe Electricity

While the joys of homeownership are numerous, there are also a lot of maintenance tasks necessary to ensure your home, appliances and systems are working properly. Keeping up with those tasks is necessary to ensure your home is safe for you and your family, to keep the systems running as efficiently as possible and to prevent small problems developing into large (and more expensive to fix) issues. While an entire list is lengthy and also dependent on your home and lifestyle, here are a few common tasks you may not be on top of. See a more complete list of seasonal maintenance tasks here. Inspect fire extinguishers at the same time you check your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors to be sure they are working. After all, if you do have a small home fire, you want to be sure your extinguisher will work. Follow these steps for checking your extinguishers. Clean bathroom exhaust fans twice a year. Moisture accumulating on the surface of the cover can turn into mold and the fan can’t properly expel moisture and odors if the cover is dirty. A thorough cleaning with soapy water can keep the fans operating properly. Clean your kitchen fan (range hood or a fan included in an over-the-stove microwave). Kitchen vent hoods are similar to bathroom fans, but with grease and food particles accumulating in the hood/filter, instead. This is an important cleaning job as accumulated grease can cause a fire. Clean monthly if you cook a lot. Find more details on how to clean a range hood here. Clean your dryer vent at least twice a year. While you probably empty the lint filter after every load or two, you need to go beyond that to prevent drier fires. Lint also builds up through the entire duct system so your ductwork must be thoroughly cleaned out. And don’t forget to clean the discharge area where the ductwork vents outdoors. Even if blocked ductwork doesn’t start a fire, it can slow down the drying process and use more energy than needed. Test your sump pump and check the backup battery system (if you have one). Checks should be made monthly or quarterly, especially before times (such as spring rains and floods) when basement flooding is a hazard. Here is a detailed description of the steps in maintaining sump pumps. Clean refrigerator coils. Out of sight, out of mind is a common reason many of us fail to perform routine maintenance. That is especially true of cleaning refrigerator coils. Coils are often at the back of the refrigerator (meaning you must move your fridge out from the wall to access them) and may be covered with a panel that must be removed. Keeping the coils clean, a task that may take only 15 minutes a couple times a year, can save energy and extend the life of the appliance. Here is a how-to. Clean window weep holes. To keep outside water from entering your home through your windows, one or several “weep holes” are located in the window frame between the window glass and the outdoors. Those holes allow water to drain. If the holes get plugged with dirt and debris, water can back up and flow inside. Check this system twice a year. See a video showing how to clear the holes, keeping in mind that different window systems may recommend slightly different ways to unplug the holes. Keep drains flowing and avoid leaky pipes and faucets. Frequently—and systematically—check for leaks under sinks; if you find moisture or a musty smell, do further checking to determine where the moisture is coming from. At the same time, test sinks and showers for speed and drainage. If the drainage is slow, you probably need to clear that drain. Also turn on each faucet to be sure no handles or valves are leaking. If any of these areas show problems, get the drain, pipe or faucet fixed ASAP to prevent bigger problems from developing. Remove calcium deposits from shower heads. If the water pressure on your showerhead has decreased, it may be because of calcium-deposit blockage. removing calcium buildup using vinegar may be the answer to greater comfort and efficiency. Here’s how. P.S. You can use vinegar to keep your dishwasher and clothes washer deodorized, mildew- and rust-free, too. Clean and sanitize your in-refrigerator water dispenser and ice maker. Occasionally—and definitely if you notice an off-taste, a weird smell or cloudy ice cubes—take time to ensure your water and ice are safe to use. Follow the details in your fridge’s use and care manual (look online if you can’t find your hard copy). Generally, you need to replace water purifier cartridges periodically for clean water, and for ice makers, dump old ice, wipe down all in-freezer components and thoroughly wash out the ice bin. Next month: Details on another important maintenance task: Maintaining your water heater.

Poor indoor air quality can lead to health issues such as asthma, allergies and other respiratory health problems. While we often think of indoor air as protecting us from polluted outdoor air, the opposite may be true; according to the Environmental Protection Agency, indoor air quality pollution can be two to five times higher than outdoor air. That’s because many homes have poor ventilation and circulation of air. The trapped indoor pollution comes from a wide range of sources including smoking or vaping, pet dander and hair, chemicals stored in the home, mold or water problems, gas appliances and wood-burning heaters. The list could go on. What a room purifier can do A room air purifier helps clear the air, capturing harmful particles and droplets (including viruses from people coughing, talking or breathing) in a HEPA filter. The HEPA filter can capture at least 99.97 percent of dust, pollen, mold, bacteria and other airborne particles according to a report in Real Simple magazine. What to check before buying Labels. Look for an Energy Star logo since purifiers should run 24/7 to be effective, and you won’t want to waste energy on a less-efficient model. An AHAM Verified seal lets you know that the clean air delivery rates (CADRs) and room size guidelines listed on the label are accurate. Your room size. Make sure you purchase one that is large enough to perform correctly in the room where you place it. That the high-efficiency particulate air filter is a HEPA, not a “HEPA-like” or “HEPA-type” filter as those are not the same thing. The minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV) on the HEPA filter. The higher the MERV number, the more effective the filter. That there is a carbon filter along with the HEPA filter. Having an activated carbon filter will help clean up VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) and odors. Cost of replacement filters, as these must be replaced at least several times a year (it depends on the brand).

Extreme winter weather can immobilize an entire region. Even areas that normally experience mild winters can suddenly be hit with heavy snowfall or intense cold. Winter storms can result in closed streets and highways, power outages, and flooding. Take action now to ensure the safety and comfort of your family in the event of extreme winter weather. Before a storm Have snow removal equipment on hand, as well as rock salt to melt ice and sand to improve traction. Regular fuel sources may be cut off, so make sure an alternative is available to heat your home. For example, store a good supply of dry, seasoned wood for your fireplace or wood-burning stove. Keep fire extinguishers on hand and make sure everyone knows how to use them. Fires pose an additional risk when alternate heating sources are in use. Locate your main water supply and valves; make sure you know how to shut them off in case a pipe bursts. Repair roof leaks and keep gutters clear. Trim any tree branches that could fall during a storm. Winterize by caulking and weatherstripping doors and windows, sealing the attic area and installing storm windows. This will help to keep your family safe and comfortable during a storm. During a storm Listen to your radio, television, or NOAA Weather Radio for weather reports and emergency information. Eat regularly and drink ample fluids but avoid caffeine and alcohol. To conserve fuel, keep your residence cooler than normal. Temporarily close off heat to some rooms. Stay dry. Change wet clothing frequently to prevent the loss of body heat. Watch for signs of frostbite; these include loss of feeling and white or pale appearance in extremities such as fingers and toes. If symptoms are detected, get medical help immediately. Drive only when necessary. If you must drive, travel on main roads during daylight hours. Keep others informed of your whereabouts. After a storm Avoid overexertion when shoveling snow. Overexertion can bring on a heart attack, a major cause of death in the winter. If you must shovel snow, stretch before going outside. Help neighbors who may require special assistance including infants, the elderly, and people with disabilities. If the pipes freeze, remove any insulation and open all faucets; pour hot water over the pipes, starting where they were most exposed to the cold. Do not try to thaw them with a blow torch or other open flame. Follow forecasts and be prepared when venturing outside. Major winter storms are often followed by extremely cold conditions. A little forethought and attention to detail will help to ensure that you and your family stay warm, dry and safe this winter, no matter what the weather is outside.

If you’ve noticed a few leaky areas in your home, maybe a draft around an exterior door or a window, sealing those leaks is a quick and easy-to-accomplish New Year’s resolution that can provide you with greater comfort. A bonus: taking these actions may also lower your utility bills for the remainder of the winter and beyond, especially when we experience weather extremes. EXTERIOR SEALING One of the simplest and cheapest means to reduce energy use this winter, and throughout the year, is to seal air leaks on a home’s exterior walls. Caulk and weather-stripping materials are relatively inexpensive and available at hardware and big box stores. It is relatively simple and inexpensive to complete some basic weatherization on a home’s exterior. Most homes can be weatherized around windows, doors and at the base of exterior siding using caulk, weather-stripping and flashing. You'll need to wait for a relatively warm day to do exterior caulking (be sure to check the caulk to find the temperatures needed for application). If this winter proves to be too cold, you may have to wait until spring. Do-it-yourself caulking tips Remove dirt and grit or any loose paint from areas to be caulked (small cracks, gaps). Choose your timing. Try not to caulk in rainy weather or when the temperature is below 40 degrees. Consider also that caulk sets faster on hot days, leaving less time to trim or clean up messy spots. Caulk around new holes or disturbances to outside walls whenever additional pipes or cables are installed. You can also use caulk to seal any gaps between the wall and the trim on your windows. Apply caulk in a continuous motion, forcing it into cracks around windows, by holding the caulk gun at a 45-degree angle to the work surface. Release the handle just before reaching the end of the crack to prevent “run-on” and to reduce waste. Filling larger gaps A can of expanding foam sealant can be used to fit larger, irregularly shaped gaps. You may need to use fillers to plug extra-wide gaps. Fillers come in a wide variety of materials—cotton, fiberglass, foam and sponge rubber. However, these fillers are not designed for exposure to the elements so you will need to caulk or seal over them. To close gaps too wide for foam use foil-faced bubble wrap. For really large holes, cut sections of rigid foam insulation to fit and glue into place with expanding foam before covering the area with wood or another appropriate building material. SEALING INDOORS Put plastic on windows if needed, caulk and seal air leaks around attic doors, and install foam gaskets behind outlet covers and switch plates. Foam gaskets are used to seal switches and outlets that do not already have a tight seal against the wall. Air can leak through interior walls, flowing up into the attic, as well as through exterior walls. So, install the gaskets on all your walls, exterior as well as interior ones. Plastic safety plugs can be used to stop air leaks through unused electrical outlets. Other steps to lower utility costs In cold weather, turn the thermostat down as much as safely possible, especially when sleeping or whenever the home is unoccupied. A programmable thermostat can help you automatically adjust the temperature for maximum savings and comfort. Add layers of clothing and bedding. Also, turn off extra lights, electronic devices or infrequently used appliances. Contact us about conducting a home energy audit and for advice on other steps you can take to keep your monthly electric bills as low as possible. Source: Iowa Utilities Board More Information ENERGY STAR's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Home Sealing Effective Means of Reducing Energy Costs from the Iowa Utilities Board

When Ice storms coat power lines, high winds can lead to lines that bounce and buck around. While rare, this movement is known as "galloping lines". Power lines are designed to sway, but if a wire is weighted down with ice and is pushed around from wind it could move close to a grounded component or an energized conductor and a short will occur. Galloping lines are a dangerous situation as power lines can touch one another or break and fall to the ground while energized. Another safety concern is the ice, itself. Ice can form around power lines in a teardrop shape. This shape acts like a wing, causing the line to gain lift and rise with winds. With high winds, the ice could break off, causing unsafe conditions on the ground. The power lines that NIPCO (Northwest Iowa Power Cooperative) uses to transmit power on its 69KV (kilovolt) high-voltage power lines throughout western Iowa are designed to withstand up to 1.5 inches of ice and 50 MPH (miles per hour) winds. Our cooperative, who receives power and transmission services from NIPCO, works to ensure that our system remains reliable and safe in the face of whatever Mother Nature throws our way. If you see power lines moving around forcefully, stay away and call the police or your local electric cooperative. If you experience a power outage, contact our office and wait for our crews to restore power. In the meantime, check out 22 Ways to Unplug if the Power Goes Out and if you use a space heater, check out this helpful article, too.

In high wind situations, there’s the potential for power outages due to branches, limbs and trees coming into contact with power lines. Our region has been notified of a high wind warning, forecasting wind gusts as high as 60 to 70 miles per hour for most of Iowa. We are monitoring the conditions and staying in close contact with our power providers. Follow these safety tips to keep you and your family safe: If at all possible, stay at home and off the roadways to allow emergency personnel and utility crews to tend to the injured and damaged areas. Make an effort to have alternative sources of light and heat available to you – whether it be candles, generators, or just warm clothing and flashlights with fresh batteries. Listen to your weather radio or stay tuned in via social media or wherever you get your breaking weather information. Make sure your cell phone is fully charged. Tune in to a local station or check the weather app on your phone for up-to-date information and instructions. Weather conditions can change without warning and can move fast. Our cooperative will communicate outage and restoration information via our social media platforms and website so if you aren’t connected with us, make sure to do so as this is the fastest way to get information to you, in real-time. You can also check statewide outage information on the Iowa Association of Electric Cooperatives outage map. Again, make sure your cell phones, laptops, and other smart devices are charged up to access this information. Stay away from all damaged or downed power lines, and any object that may be in contact with them, as the lines may be live. Assume that all downed power lines are energized. Instruct others to stay away, too. Call 911 to inform your local utility of damaged lines, or downed trees that may be in contact with power lines. This is true of lines at your home, in your neighborhood, or when you are driving. If you come in contact with a downed power line while driving, stay in your vehicle and wait for a utility to make sure the line is de-energized before exiting the vehicle. Before entering storm-damaged buildings, make sure the electricity is turned off. Again, contact your local utility if you need instructions on how to safely disconnect utility lines. If you detect the smell of gas or suspect a leak, leave the house immediately. Call 911 and your utility to alert them of the issue. Do not light an open flame or flip any switches in the house. Exercise patience during a power outage. In almost all cases, crews will not be sent out to perform restoration procedures UNTIL IT IS SAFE TO DO SO. And, If you come upon utility crews working on the side of the road restoring power, please move over and slow down so they have room to work safely! (It’s the law!) Do not turn off power if you have to stand in water to do so. Call your utility and have them turn off your electricity at the meter. Never drive through a flooded roadway. There is no way of knowing how deep the water is. A good rule to follow is to turn around, don’t drown. Never enter a flooded basement if electrical outlets, cords, or appliances are underwater. The water could be energized by electricity. When cleaning up storm damage outdoors, do not use electrical tools if the ground is wet. Also, do not use electrical equipment that has been damaged by water. Have your water-damaged items inspected and approved by a professional before using them.